Today was a short 14-mile jog to Cea. I let myself sleep in, then got ready to head out at 10:30 a.m.
SCORE — the staff at my hotel found a new mochila taxi service that operates from Ourense to Santiago. The rate is 20 euros/leg, no matter what length the legs are. This is especially beneficial for folks like me, who never have enough time away from home and have to log long days. So off my bags went, while I headed to the Museum Cafe.
I love this cafe. It’s 1/2-block off the Camino and has fantastic, enormous pan de chocolates. One of those plus a large cafe con leche was only a little over 2 euros. That sure put me in a good mood!
It was supposed to be cloudy all day, but I had sun for the first few hours. On the miles-long climb out of Ourense, I paused at one chapel I hadn’t seen before. A man was working in the fields, so I asked if it was open. It wasn’t, but he proceeded to get the key, open it up and give me the whole history. It’s dedicated to San Marcos, and years ago was in ruins. Just the foundation remained. Spain got some European funds and rebuilt it 14 years ago. Sadly, San Marcos’ statue isn’t in the chapel, since thieves had broken in and now he has to be guarded until his feast day.
I passed one of my favorite spots today, a home where someone has set out three life-size figures who hold a sign wishing us a “Bon Viaxe,” or Buen Camino in Gallego. I also always enjoy going through Viduedo and stopping by its church. This year there were all sorts of floral decorations around the various outdoor statues. It was beautiful.
Got to Cea and my casa rural for the night. Peregrinos, this place is such a steal! It’s called Casa Manoso and is just 20 euros/night. The place is absolutely gorgeous. If you want to hike to Castro-Dozon the next day and return here to sleep, the owner has you take a bus back to Cea, and then the next day she’ll drive you to Castro-Dozon to continue on.
Had dinner at the panaderia, and it was fantastic and inexpensive. Many pilgrims don’t know they serve dinner, but they do.