I’m trying not to panic by writing this, sitting on a gravel road. I hate days that start out with such promise, then turn to crap.
So I broke camp, loaded up with water and hit the trail. I was pretty happy to see that, for the most part, the trail was flat or downhill. Yes! Assuming no bad terrain, I could easily get within 2-3 miles (3.2-4.8 km) of the highway (my goal), and maybe even reach the highway and get to Abiquiu for some R&R.
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(Unknowingly) Heading to a Gravel Road
Not too long after leaving my less-than-scenic camp, the scenery became gorgeous. I clicked off the miles. Stopping for a break at 10 a.m., a woman on a UTV pulled over to chat.
Long story short, she (Liz) offered to take me to their nearby camp (her boyfriend was elk hunting) for a shower and stay, and/or to take me down the road and into Abiquiu. We decided she could slackpack me (carry my heavy stuff for the day), then either take me to Abiquiu tonight or tomorrow morning.
I asked how we’d stay in touch so we could meet up at the end of the day, and she assured me that she could find me anywhere, as she grew up wandering around these mountains. I got her name and number as a back-up. She kept saying, “I know these mountains. I can find you ANYWHERE.”
Day Gets Gnarly
Not too long after leaving Liz, the trail was poorly marked and criss-crossed with animal trails. I had to keep pulling out my app and re-routing myself, which was frustrating. I don’t get why they double-mark certain areas and leave others totally unmarked.
I was also dismayed to come upon a creek around 12 miles in (19.3 km) that was dry, after someone recently wrote in the app that it had water. There were no other water sources until the highway in some 13 more miles (20.9 km).
Luckily, I hadn’t drank all of my water, so I began rationing it. I also messaged Liz through my Garmin about coordinating a pick-up spot.
SOS
Around 3:45 p.m., some 2 miles (3.2 km) from where I hoped to meet Liz (who never answered my texts), I lost the trail. The app showed it continuing in a spot where there were a gazillion metal corrals and private fencing. The app also had a note that the trail was poorly marked here and hard to follow.
I’d just crossed a gravel road (and seen two trucks), so I went back to the gravel road and messaged Liz with my new locale. I hoped this was a 
(somewhat) busy area. It’s almost 4:30 now, and I haven’t heard back from Liz, nor has she found me. No other vehicles have gone by.
If I need to spend the night here, I’m screwed. She has my tent, clothes, etc. I do have a coat and my sleeping quilt, but I’ll freeze. I also don’t know how long my battery will last. Do I call 911? I might have to if she doesn’t appear by, say, 5:30 p.m.
Why Me?
Other hikers have so many stories of serendipitous trail angels who have gone above and beyond to provide things; I thought Liz slackpacking me might be my first one. (Meaning, the first person who stumbled upon me on the trail and offered help. I’ve had LOTS of great trail angels who coordinated helping me in advance.) Now I feel stupid for agreeing to it. And I hate to bother the 911 folks …
Sigh. I hope by writing this I won’t cry. I want to go home. I’m over this trail – at least for 2024.
Epilogue
The epilogue is long, so I’ll condense. A couple drove by in their truck, so I hailed them and explained the situation. They had no idea what to do.
We drove to their camp, which had StarLink, and managed to contact Liz. We don’t know if she doesn’t listen to anyone, has mental health issues or what, but she agreed to meet us halfway to Abiquiu, then take me into town. But she never showed up.
She then (after several weird proposals) agreed to meet me at Bode’s, a store in Abiquiu. The couple dropped off there; I’d already messaged the woman who owned a place in Abiquiu where I had a reservation for tomorrow. She assured me I could come tonight.
Liz did show up and brought me to the Abiquiu place. But there was a lot of other oddness I won’t go into. Not sure of her story, but so glad I’m safe and here.
Party Time
There are lots of cyclists staying at this place, where I was able to have a hot shower and pitch my tent. I’d also bought food (and booze!) at Bode’s, so once I was cleaned up and set up my tent, I joined the others. What a nice group. I’m so glad this worked out well.
Snowshoe
Today’s Miles: 15.3 (24.6 km)
CDT Miles to Date: 785 (1,263.3 km)
CDT Miles to Go: 2,315 (3,725.6 km)
